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It all began in Del Mar, California, during my early 20s when I was dating a lifeguard. Living the Baywatch dream? Maybe unintentionally, but hey, in California, it's almost inevitable. After a healthy dose of trial and error, I found myself riding the waves daily during those sunny Del Mar summers.
As time passed, I met my husband, who shared my passion for surfing. We enjoyed countless hours in the waves together until an unfortunate accident during a trip to Cabo landed me in the hospital, - the board hit my throat and caused me to become immediately horse - putting my surfing adventures on hold for over 20 years. But life, with its twists and turns, had other plans in store for me.
As any forty-something knows, finding a new hobby becomes a quest of its own, and I'm not at the gardening stage of my life yet. After moving to Malibu, living only steps away from the beach, and hiring local surf coach and professional surfer Andrew Jacobson, I dusted off my board and dove back in. Now, surfing is part of my regular routine, and I hit the waves 3-4 times a week.
Despite facing a few bumps along the way, such as the unforgettable moment at the Kelly Slater Surf Ranch where I broke my nose (ouch), I pressed on. Thankfully, no surgery was needed; I just sported a badass black eye for a few days.
My Top Surf Spots:
Witches Rock Costa Rica:
The water here is so warm—bathtub warm—that it makes hours feel like minutes. It's a secluded Long Beach break, reachable only by boat, offering unparalleled views. The wave curls onto a pristine white sandy beach within a state park. Beyond the break, a massive rock formation known as Witch's Rock rises dramatically from the ocean, towering 100 feet into the air. For me and my family, this place is truly magical.
Little Dume Beach:
This one is right out my back door. The only way to access it is with a key, and luckily when we bought our land in Malibu, it came with one. It’s a reef break and not a beach break, which is hard on the feet (think rocky bottom), but the wave is gentle, and there are 3-4 different breaks on this beach breaking at different times of the day, even the year. It’s our little secret.
Zuma Beach Tower 13:
Zuma Beach Tower 13 is a beach break with waves breaking both left and right. The rides might not be the longest, but let me tell you, they're great. And the best part? It's just a quick 10-minute drive from my house.
