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Eva Zuckerman

Eva Fehren’s iconic X-ring has been oft-copied, but Eva’s the true original. Bonafide New Yorker Eva Zuckerman of Eva Fehren Jewelry draws inspiration from the city that she was born and raised in. The strong architecture, the criss-crossing powerlines, and the cracked patterns of the well-worn sidewalks are visible in her geometric, delicate designs. Eva is also a favorite of fellow Particulars interviewee, Jill Kargman, so we knew she was one of us when we had the opportunity to peep her styles in her NYC showroom.

MELISSA: Can you tell us about the brand’s origins and your path to jewelry design?
 My path to jewelry design was definitely not a linear or clearly mapped out plan. I grew up in NYC and was always a creative person. My parents owned a temporary tattoo and cosmetics company and I grew up painting on tattoos, doing body art and pretty much drawing constantly.
I feel like in many ways my influences and connection to jewelry as an art form seeped into me through osmosis. I went on to study painting at The Cooper Union, and soon after graduating began hungrily learning everything I could about jewelry. I have always felt like there has been a connection between my art background, the architecture, attitude and aesthetic of my native New York and my family heritage of growing up in a creative entrepreneurial background that created the perfect storm and led me to become a jewelry designer.

MELISSA: A lot of jewelry on the market today is quite dainty and delicate and therefore similar, you take a more architectural approach, tell us about how you get inspiration for and design your collection?
 I am eternally inspired by my native city of New York: the architectural details, and the beauty and glamour of this city contrasted with the toughness of it.  I also take a lot of inspiration from furniture and architectural design, as well as art. I love the idea of creating pieces that are modular and can be stacked and combined in unexpected ways.

MELISSA: The line has a very geometric aesthetic but with a tough yet feminine touch, how do you negotiate that fine line and balance?
EVA: I am always trying to walk the fine line between modern feminine piers that have a bit of toughness to them. I love the idea of putting on a piece of jewelry that makes you feel stronger, and more like yourself.  If I don’t feel empowered or beautiful in a piece of jewelry, I won’t make it. I feel attracted to strong, linear shapes that still feel delicate because I feel like they help achieve this subtle balance.

MELISSA: We love how you incorporate black, grey and opaque colors into pieces, how do you manage to make those elements still feel light for everyday wear?
I think the challenge of every great piece of jewelry is achieving the balance between feeling substantial and strong and still effortless.  I think about this whenever I’m designing a new piece, and always try to contrast larger, more substantial stones with delicate and refined details.
 You’re the originator of the iconic and often copied “X” ring, how do you feel about a piece of yours being so widely imitated?
 At first it drove me crazy that it was so widely copied…but now I’ve come to a place where I’m at peace with it, and really proud. Happy that I put something into the world that resonates with so many people.

MELISSA: You also design wedding / engagement jewelry that is not typical, how do you approach that life moment for clients?
EVA: I aim to design pieces that feel as uniquely special, and personal to each client as the experience feels. It is such an important moment in peoples’ life, and can be a bit scary! I try to create pieces that feel truly tailored to our clients’ individual style, and as wearable and effortless as possible.

MELISSA: Speaking of, you also offer unisex jewelry, do you often find that men are shopping for themselves or that couples come in together to find matching pieces….we’d love to hear some stories!
 I find that couples often want commitment jewelry that speaks to each other but doesn’t necessarily match perfectly…two different ring silhouettes in a matching finish, or metalway. Or different profiles of the same silhouette. This goes for same sex couples as well as couples of the opposite gender.
One of my favorite stories is when a same sex couple came in to buy our Zipper bands. Many of pieces are modular and can be stacked and layered into each other. The zipper bands, when created in the same size, perfectly interlock. Luckily, the couple had the exact same size fingers, and couldn’t decide between wanting white diamonds and blue sapphires, the thinner profile or the wider silhouette. So, they got one of each width in both stone types. They are repeat customers, so every time I see them, they are swapping rings and mixing and matching them. I love it.

"I'm driven by the energy of New York City, the everyday and the juxtaposition of grit and grandiose beauty"

MELISSA: Any daily particulars when you get dressed in the morning? Tell us about your must haves.
BY TERRY CellulaRose Serum, Chantecaille tinted moisturizer and mascara, Surratt highlighter, and a dab of Westman Atelier Super Loaded tinted highlight and Serge Lutens perfume makes me feel glowing and ready for the day.  My Rick Owens leather jacket and Always my X Ring are everyday must-haves….a diamond Line necklace with a ‘D’ charm and my engagement ring to keep my honey top of mind.
 What’s up next for you? Tell us!
 We have a few really exciting projects on the horizon. I am extremely excited about my ongoing home collaboration with Holly Hunt, and my newest Platinum and White diamond Collection, Nova.