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Known as the city of love, Paris stands out as one of my favorite destinations abroad. This travel guide has been highly requested and has been in the works for a few years. It's harder than it looks to pack everything you love about a city into one post!
I've had the pleasure of visiting Paris numerous times, whether with my family, a fun trip with my girlfriends, or a glamorous stint during Paris Fashion Week. And let me tell you, each time I leave, I find myself longing to return. There's just something about Paris that keeps drawing me back in, time and time again.
Where to Stay
La’Reserve Hotel and Spa
Recently, I stayed at La’ Reserve and it exceeded my expectations. The location was perfectly situated between some of my favorite shopping streets, Rue St. Honore and Avenue Montaigne. This is more of a home than a hotel or at least felt more like a boutique hotel. Our room was on the first floor and was spacious with a balcony looking out to a center garden area. The hotel has an indoor pool and spa which always helps get over jet lag when you arrive in Paris. The hotel has a michelin stared restaurant and I had already visited the bar for hand shaken cocktails in the past. The concierge was able to book difficult dinner reservations and booked some last minute reservations as well. I loved having breakfast in the morning in the library room. I look forward to booking here in the future.
Cheval Blanc
This fabulous 72 room hotel is owned by LVMH so its level of service and design detail is extraordinary. I have stayed here a few times, once with my kids and another just with friends. The rooms unlike many of the palace hotels is the most modern and newest of 5 star hotels. The rooms are equipped with enclosed balconies that face the Seine which is the ultimate breakfast with a view. The indoor pool and Dior spa facilities are beyond luxurious. I swam in the pool and had a facial one day with Dior products. The rooftop bar/restaurant Le Jardin is the best place to view the Eiffel tower from a distance while enjoying craft cocktails and the yummiest Italian fare. There are multiple restaurants in the hotel each offering something different. Le Tout-Paris is a contemporary bistro with a view of the Eiffel tower. We enjoyed drinks and small bites at the bar. I also love that the hotel is basically connected to Samaritaine. The location of the hotel within walking distance of Notre Dame (we went to a Sunday mass which was incredible) and basically connected to Pont-Neuf which connects the Right and Left banks.
Hôtel Plaza Anthénée
Is a quintessential classic French hotel that is opulent and gilded - but in all the right places. If you’re looking for an extraordinary view, you can book rooms that face the ivy flanked patio, which IMO are the best rooms in the hotel. The main salon hallway, formally called La Galerie, is the be and be seen during any Paris Fashion Week. I love grabbing lunch or tea here. My go-to is the club sandwich, fries, and, of course, a glass of champagne. The onsite Dior Spa recently went through a renovation and was reborn with brand-new treatment rooms and a plethora of Dior beauty and fragrance products.
Le Bistrol
Le Bistrol is another classic French hotel. It is a bit bigger than the Plaza and is an excellent hotel for families. It includes cool kid-friendly features like the rooftop pool (uncommon in Paris) and the hotel's house cat, Socrates, who roams freely around the hotel. He is even known for casually roaming through your afternoon lunch on the patio. Kids color pictures of Socrates, and the concierge posts them in their office. The basement of the Bristol has its own bread, chocolate, and cheese workshop where they make and curate all of these items in-house (so I don't need to tell you that this may be the best bread, cheese, and croissants in Paris).
Le Grand Mazarin
Though I have not stayed here, I have heard great things and am eager to check it out. Located in The Marais, this hotel has it all but tucked away in more of a neighborhood. The poppy colorful rooms and the pool + hammam really set it apart. Michelin-star chefs helm the hotel restaurants, so you can't go wrong with the food options. Stay tuned!
Where To Eat & Drink
My friend, business partner, and famed restaurateur, Jeffrey Chodorow (think Asia De Cuba, China Grill, and Komodo in Miami, Dallas, and Las Vegas), has always been my go-to resource when planning dinner and lunch reservations. Needless to say, he knows food. Here is his extensive list of must-visit spots in Paris, plus a few from my list too.
Bistros
Chez Fernand - Traditional French cuisine and an extensive wine list in a retro, rustic bistro. The restaurant is located in Saint-Germain area, across the bridge, at 5 minutes from Cheval Blanc Paris. There were several Americans in the restaurant so didn’t feel super local but food was good. Stick to wine rather than a mixed cocktail. We asked for a Negroni and it was far from it!
Bistro Tournelles - This classic candlelit bistro is the perfect Paris night. The menu of roasted chicken, french fries and a salad does not disappoint. The wine list offered the perfect pairing to our meal. This is on my list for everytime I am in Paris.
Le Cafe Blanc - This super casual bistro is an easy lunch with no reservations required.
La Poule au Pot - I went here a few years ago with a French local and have been back several times. It’s a Parisian institute that has been open for 90 years!
L’Amis Louis - This is my favorite restaurant in Paris. It's charming, traditional, and very tough to get into. The menu is so simple, but has a long history and french classics like giant escargot, foie gras terrine, roast chicken, and lamb. It is best to go for lunch as you might want a snack for dinner, but take any reservation that you can get.
Allard: I went here on my last trip to Paris and it was divine. Its been running for over 30 years! I suggest ordering the duck with green olives for two. It also has a great menu to order from if kids are joining you. It’s now owned by Alain Ducasse and kept most of the classic dishes from the previous owner, preserving its authentic charm.
Sardegna a Tavola: This is a funny recommendation since it’s on no one’s radar (a hidden gem, perhaps?). It was suggested to me by a woman named Sabine, she is Monica Belucci's (former Bond Girl and famous French actresses) mother. If you go, ask for chef Tony. The food is Sardinian - basically Italian but with an interesting flare. Simple and delicious.
Le Clown Bar - This used to be part of a circus complex and decorated with clown faces. A modern bistro - very good!
Brasserie Lipp - This is a casual bistro in Saint Germain. It was packed but the food was excellent. My 8 year old son tried escargot there and loved it (that's when you know!) But pro tip: don't add ice to your wine on a warm summer's day... the waiter didn't love that. Let them cool the bottle longer in the ice bucket.
Fontaine de Mars - This very classic restaurant is THE place to go for the best steak frites IMO!
A Level Above Bistro
Le Bon Georges, traditional cuisine in a convivial atmosphere in this heaven of bon vivants. The menu is written in French on a chalkboard and the wine list is at least 1,000 pages! The owner is typically there greeting guests!
Girafe - Heavy on the seafood side, but has an amazing view of the Eiffel Tower. Try to get a table on the patio. The Eiffel Tower seems so close you could touch it!
Monsieur Bleu - If you are not a big seafood person but still want an excellent view of the Eiffel Tower, try Monsieur Bleu instead.
Le Relais Plaza at Hôtel Plaza Athénée - This is actually the all-day restaurant at the Hôtel Plaza Anthénée with the chef (Jean Imbert) that has become the darling of Paris. He also runs the formal restaurant at the Plaza but this is more casual and Parisian-cool. It's the go-to spot for locals. The food is special, classic, and overall great.
La Bourse et La Vie: This is an American chef who went to Paris and wowed them. Worth a visit.
L’Avenue - I always go when I land and have lunch. The waitresses are super cool, the food is just right, and the cocktails are even better. Plus the restaurant is on one of the best shopping streets in Paris (bonus!).
Higher End (but still suitable for families)
Lou Lou Paris- I love having a leisurely lunch at Lou Lou. It’s a yummy classic Italian restaurant located right outside of the Louvre with a view of the Eiffel tower in the distance and lush green grass and trees. If the weather is not cooperating, they have an indoor dining room which does not disappoint. Its sometimes a hard reservation so make sure to book in advance.
La Scene - The Chef is Helen Darroze, and is the best female chef in Paris. We did the tasting menu and it blew us away. For sure pricey but an unforgettable dining experience.
Lassere - Lassere is a more formal coat and tie restaurant. However, its unique feature is the sliding roof, allowing diners to experience the classic French fare while enjoying an open-air ambiance.
Bars
Bar Hemingway at The Ritz - This tiny bar is tucked in the back of the hotel but is dedicated to Ernest Hemingway. There is a plethora of memorabilia everywhere. The cocktails are a 10, and bar snacks are just right.
Bar Le Gaspard at La Reserve Paris - This adults-only, super dark and sexy hotel has a small bar with curated cocktails.
Le Tout Paris at Le Cheval Blanc Hotel - Located on the 7th floor of the LVMH owned hotel, this restaurant and bar has panoramic views of Paris. You can see from Notre Dame to the Eiffel Tower.
What To See & Do
Paris pro-tip: make sure to book any museums or visits to boutiques in advance. You will never get tickets or access if you decide to make these plans while in Paris. You can always cancel but its disappointing to miss out, so plan in advance.
Day trip to Reims - The only other day trips I’ve done from Paris were Disneyland and Cognac with my parents, so this time we decided on Reims, the birthplace of Champagne. We took a direct 45-minute train from Paris Gare de l’Est and worked with Julien from Oenospheres to plan the day. They customized our itinerary with visits to two champagne houses, a stop at the mini Notre Dame, and enough time to enjoy another glass before heading back. Reims station is also conveniently close to famous houses like Veuve Clicquot and Ruinart. I’d definitely recommend taking the train both ways since the drive back took nearly two hours.
Fondation Louis Vuitton - An art museum and cultural center located a few minutes outside of Paris, with continually changing exhibits. Plus it's a great spot if you have kids and it's warm outside, as there is an entire outdoor carnival with rides and games.
Musee Rodin - I love the sculpture garden!
Louvre Museum - I try to see something new each time, but the Mona Lisa is a must. After, grab lunch at Cafe LouLou for some delicious Italian food and a killer aperol spritz!
Musee Yves Saint Laurent Paris - This small museum is in Saint Laurent’s old studio. It has archival pieces of his work and recreations of his work space. It's a must for fashion lovers. My husband even enjoyed it (that's when you know!).
Musee D’Orsey - I love impressionist art, and this has one of the largest collections!
LV Dream - This exhibit celebrates 160 years of Louis Vuitton's collaborations with artists and creatives. Plus it has a mini LV store inside. This is not to be missed!
River Cruise on the Seine - I have done this both in the daytime and nighttime. The nighttime is pretty specular because the boat takes you right in front of the Eiffel Tower when it's flashing, which happens on the hour every hour. It's pretty special. The tour takes about an hour and they serve you champagne which of course makes everything better. They take you down the Seine and offer some historical tidbits. I do this every time I am in Paris. It's a must!
Shopping
Paris has an array of incredible shopping streets with the finest stores. Here's my curated list of must-visit streets and stores, ranging from iconic department stores to smaller boutiques:
Le Bon Marche - A major department store that always has riveting collaborations with other brands! Plus, it's always interesting to see the assortments from clothing brands in Paris versus the US.
Louis Vuiton Maison Champs-Elysees - This is a massive LV store that you’ll also need an appointment for otherwise you will be out of luck.
La Samaritaine - This department store was purchased by the LVMH brand about 10 years ago and just reopened. It houses all the brands from ready-to-wear to luxury.
Isabel Marant - There are several in Paris but my fav is the flagship on Rue de Charonne. This location also carries vintage.
Rue Saint-Honore - Think of this as the 5th Avenue of Paris. It has every brand from Goyard to Gucci to Hermes and everything in between. If you can grab a lunch reservation at the Hotel Costes, it’s worth it! Also, there are several Chanel stores on this street but the one to visit is the original store 31 Rue Cambon. Coco’s apartment is above the store. I was lucky enough to visit and it was a pinch me moment. It is always busy so remember to make your appointments in advance. I find the sales people at this Chanel to be super helpful; others are sometimes not!
Avenue Montaigne - Again, think of this as a second 5th Avenue of Paris. A bit smaller than Rue Saint-Honore but just as fabulous. The Dior store is my favorite on the street (SJP from Sex in the City fell down at this Dior store!). It has a cafe for coffee and a restaurant for lunch. If you find yourself here, pop in Plaza Athenee for a cocktail or tea.
Hermes - One last not-tobe-missed is the Hermes store 24 Rue du Faubourg St. Honoréwhich, where an old indoor swimming pool from the 1930s has been transformed into a stunning display space. There are six giant wood sculptures that house the various Hermes collections. Pro Tip - I find the sales people in most Hermes stores to be extremely rude but do not let that deter you if you really find something you love. They also tend to display lots of bags in the windows that are not actually for sale, think of Kelly and Birkin styles.
Paris Packing List
